Just bought one it has 125k for mile and I need to know if the belt should be changed
Does the 1999 Infinity G20 have timing Belt or chain?
A plastic cover on front of engine indicates a belt,generally no one changes a timing chain,belts are critical.
Does the 1999 Infinity G20 have timing Belt or chain?
It's called a timing belt but its always a chain, never rubber! and expensive to repair if you dont need to. Maybe jit ust needs adjusting.
It's a chain and expensive
You have a timing chain and it never gets replaced unless something very wrong happens and it stretches. And timing belts are made of rubber, I don't know what that other guy is talking about.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
86 ford f-150 timing?
im changing timing gears n chain on86 f-150 fi 302 where do marks lineup at ?
86 ford f-150 timing?
Usually, you should line up cylinder 1 at TDC before taking it apart. The dot on the cam and the dot on the crank should be directly across from each other.
Make sure you correctly line up the new gears in the chain before mounting them.
86 ford f-150 timing?
I can't remember for certain anymore. Place the #1 cylinder at top dead center when you start. Makes life way easyer. Seems to me that they may line up across from each other? Either way as long as the engine didn't make any revolutions when the gears and chain were off you can just slap the new parts right in. They will only go one one way and you timing should not be off. Theoretically.
Hi
The little peen marks line up facing each other. One on the main aims at the cam gear between the teeth.
they point to one another, crank up and cam down
Line up the dots on the crank and cam so that they are directly across from each other. Turn crank to #1 cylinder @ TDC and turn cam so that both vlaves are closed.
86 ford f-150 timing?
Usually, you should line up cylinder 1 at TDC before taking it apart. The dot on the cam and the dot on the crank should be directly across from each other.
Make sure you correctly line up the new gears in the chain before mounting them.
86 ford f-150 timing?
I can't remember for certain anymore. Place the #1 cylinder at top dead center when you start. Makes life way easyer. Seems to me that they may line up across from each other? Either way as long as the engine didn't make any revolutions when the gears and chain were off you can just slap the new parts right in. They will only go one one way and you timing should not be off. Theoretically.
Hi
The little peen marks line up facing each other. One on the main aims at the cam gear between the teeth.
they point to one another, crank up and cam down
Line up the dots on the crank and cam so that they are directly across from each other. Turn crank to #1 cylinder @ TDC and turn cam so that both vlaves are closed.
Which is the intake / exhaust valve? exhaust on right if directly above cylinder?
I just did a major overhaul on this 92 gmc sierra, and the timing is kickin my ****!! i was close, then back to the backfiring! I more than likely went wrong way with dist. but when timing marks were lined up, it spit flame out tbi! I didnt change timing chain cover gasket, so actual timing marks are still unknown!
Which is the intake / exhaust valve? exhaust on right if directly above cylinder?
maybe not timing maybe the hydraulic valves are set too tight. I did that once.
Which is the intake / exhaust valve? exhaust on right if directly above cylinder?
What motor? Remove #1 plug and bring to top dead center. Yes back firing out of tbi is timing. If dstributor was removed, could be 180 degrees out of time. Intake and exhaust change order with each cylinder.
Sound to me that you are one turn out. Remove spark plug on # 1 cyl. Stick your finger in the hole and turn it over slowly. When you feel compression building up continue to the TDC mark. Then set the distributer accordingly. Bob
The intake is usually the bigger, follow an intake manifold runner down to the head.
Which is the intake / exhaust valve? exhaust on right if directly above cylinder?
maybe not timing maybe the hydraulic valves are set too tight. I did that once.
Which is the intake / exhaust valve? exhaust on right if directly above cylinder?
What motor? Remove #1 plug and bring to top dead center. Yes back firing out of tbi is timing. If dstributor was removed, could be 180 degrees out of time. Intake and exhaust change order with each cylinder.
Sound to me that you are one turn out. Remove spark plug on # 1 cyl. Stick your finger in the hole and turn it over slowly. When you feel compression building up continue to the TDC mark. Then set the distributer accordingly. Bob
The intake is usually the bigger, follow an intake manifold runner down to the head.
What would cause low oil pressure Chevrolet 4.8L after timing set change?
Summary:
This pertains to changing the timing gear/chain on a 2000 Silverado 4.8L. Where the engine previously held 40-80# oil pressure, it now will dip completely to nothing on the gauge (check pressure lights) and maximum WOT is 40 psi (which as stated was previously minimum.) Could not replacing the O-Ring on the pickup tube be the culprit?
Below is longer explanation:
Procedure:
Drained Coolant and engine oil.
Disconnected hoses
Removed Fan, Serpentine Belt, Tensioner assembly
Unbolted Water pump
Pulled balancer/pulley
Removed Timing cover
Loosened Oil pan, dropped about 1 inch
Unbolted and unhooked pickup
Removed oil pump
Unbolted Cam gear/chain
Pulled Crank gear
-------
And as per %26quot;directions,%26quot; reversed above procedure for assembly. We %26quot;primed%26quot; the oil pump by blocking one end with %26quot;motor (white lithium) grease,%26quot; filling with oil, and plugging the suction side with more grease before assembly.
This is where our potential mistake--and our need for more experienced help--may have taken place: We did not install a new o-ring on the pickup tube before reinsertion into the oil pump.
My father and I have a great amount of experience (racing background) with 350/400 SBC motors. None at all with the new generation stuff. After discussing this at length, we've concluded this may be the issue. But, before we tear this all back down, we'd like some more insight.
As for the GM %26quot;specs%26quot; (6 to 24#) on oil pressure, we've found that to be inaccurate. Lifter tick occurs at anything from 20psi down. It honestly doesn't clear up until 25-30#. So, although nothing that rotates is damaged, for them to spec this low psi for hydraulic (roller) lifter motors seems nonsense! This is further reinforced by the fact this motor originally held no less than 40# at any time.
The secondary question in all this pertains to the new timing set. The new assembly still allows for (from our perspective) an absurd amount of slack. From observation, this new assembly appears barely better than the 230,000 mile set it replaced! Is this common for these motors? Please keep in mind that our experience pertains to the older SBC engines, in which the chain has barely any noticeable slack.
Thank you all in advance!
JK
What would cause low oil pressure Chevrolet 4.8L after timing set change?
Re-using the old O-ring is a definite no-no. If you don't have a good seal there, the pump will suck air, and pressure will be accordingly lower. And contrary to another poster, the O-ring is not below the oil level.
______________________________________鈥?br>
Lubricate a NEW (their caps, not mine) oil pump screen O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
Push the oil pump screen tube completely into the oil pump prior to tightening the bolt. Do not allow the bolt to pull the tube into the pump.
What would cause low oil pressure Chevrolet 4.8L after timing set change?
Sounds about right but you didn't mention what weight oil you put in. If the oil is too thick you will get lower oil pressure. I like 5W-30 as an all around good oil for normal driving.
Sound like the O ring may have moved out of place, cut, or split and now you are getting some air in system. Small air bubbles in the oil can be compressed causing lifters to collapse as pure fluid can't be compressed. A one minute shortcut could of caused you hours of extra work. Now if you ever need to prime a oil pump again just submerge it in oil and spin the gears in the pump a few times and your done, no need to plug up with grease that will slow oil getting in. The factory oil pressure spec is taken with a external gauge connected to a oil galley, not using a sending unit that is using current resistance to calculate pressure the spec is correct.
You have more experience with GM than I, so don't take this with too much weight. But I don't understand how the pickup or pump could be involved with timing chain and sprockets?
But beyond that, yes, I would worry about the pickup sucking air.
And I don't get the pump priming idea.
I understand the grease would prevent leak down, but pumps always leak down and are fine with leak down. So I would not have put grease in the pump openings. If you really want to prime, I would take the oil pressure switch our and for oil in there, under pressure. That will fill all the galleries.
I think the grease can trap air and make the pump not suck the oil up properly.
But just my thoughts.
the oring will not be the problem sounds to me you did everything right . sometimes it just take a lot of time for it to prime up. I know it gets irritating at times but from what you are saying I cant think of anything else but just keep letting it run a little more or just repack the oil pump again i have had to do that a couple of times, but on the oring deal i did the same thing once and the dealerships service manager told me that if you think about this long and hard the oring is submerged in oil anyways so he never understood why they would use them in the first place. so please get back with me when you get it going. oklistview bug horses
This pertains to changing the timing gear/chain on a 2000 Silverado 4.8L. Where the engine previously held 40-80# oil pressure, it now will dip completely to nothing on the gauge (check pressure lights) and maximum WOT is 40 psi (which as stated was previously minimum.) Could not replacing the O-Ring on the pickup tube be the culprit?
Below is longer explanation:
Procedure:
Drained Coolant and engine oil.
Disconnected hoses
Removed Fan, Serpentine Belt, Tensioner assembly
Unbolted Water pump
Pulled balancer/pulley
Removed Timing cover
Loosened Oil pan, dropped about 1 inch
Unbolted and unhooked pickup
Removed oil pump
Unbolted Cam gear/chain
Pulled Crank gear
-------
And as per %26quot;directions,%26quot; reversed above procedure for assembly. We %26quot;primed%26quot; the oil pump by blocking one end with %26quot;motor (white lithium) grease,%26quot; filling with oil, and plugging the suction side with more grease before assembly.
This is where our potential mistake--and our need for more experienced help--may have taken place: We did not install a new o-ring on the pickup tube before reinsertion into the oil pump.
My father and I have a great amount of experience (racing background) with 350/400 SBC motors. None at all with the new generation stuff. After discussing this at length, we've concluded this may be the issue. But, before we tear this all back down, we'd like some more insight.
As for the GM %26quot;specs%26quot; (6 to 24#) on oil pressure, we've found that to be inaccurate. Lifter tick occurs at anything from 20psi down. It honestly doesn't clear up until 25-30#. So, although nothing that rotates is damaged, for them to spec this low psi for hydraulic (roller) lifter motors seems nonsense! This is further reinforced by the fact this motor originally held no less than 40# at any time.
The secondary question in all this pertains to the new timing set. The new assembly still allows for (from our perspective) an absurd amount of slack. From observation, this new assembly appears barely better than the 230,000 mile set it replaced! Is this common for these motors? Please keep in mind that our experience pertains to the older SBC engines, in which the chain has barely any noticeable slack.
Thank you all in advance!
JK
What would cause low oil pressure Chevrolet 4.8L after timing set change?
Re-using the old O-ring is a definite no-no. If you don't have a good seal there, the pump will suck air, and pressure will be accordingly lower. And contrary to another poster, the O-ring is not below the oil level.
______________________________________鈥?br>
Lubricate a NEW (their caps, not mine) oil pump screen O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
Push the oil pump screen tube completely into the oil pump prior to tightening the bolt. Do not allow the bolt to pull the tube into the pump.
What would cause low oil pressure Chevrolet 4.8L after timing set change?
Sounds about right but you didn't mention what weight oil you put in. If the oil is too thick you will get lower oil pressure. I like 5W-30 as an all around good oil for normal driving.
Sound like the O ring may have moved out of place, cut, or split and now you are getting some air in system. Small air bubbles in the oil can be compressed causing lifters to collapse as pure fluid can't be compressed. A one minute shortcut could of caused you hours of extra work. Now if you ever need to prime a oil pump again just submerge it in oil and spin the gears in the pump a few times and your done, no need to plug up with grease that will slow oil getting in. The factory oil pressure spec is taken with a external gauge connected to a oil galley, not using a sending unit that is using current resistance to calculate pressure the spec is correct.
You have more experience with GM than I, so don't take this with too much weight. But I don't understand how the pickup or pump could be involved with timing chain and sprockets?
But beyond that, yes, I would worry about the pickup sucking air.
And I don't get the pump priming idea.
I understand the grease would prevent leak down, but pumps always leak down and are fine with leak down. So I would not have put grease in the pump openings. If you really want to prime, I would take the oil pressure switch our and for oil in there, under pressure. That will fill all the galleries.
I think the grease can trap air and make the pump not suck the oil up properly.
But just my thoughts.
the oring will not be the problem sounds to me you did everything right . sometimes it just take a lot of time for it to prime up. I know it gets irritating at times but from what you are saying I cant think of anything else but just keep letting it run a little more or just repack the oil pump again i have had to do that a couple of times, but on the oring deal i did the same thing once and the dealerships service manager told me that if you think about this long and hard the oring is submerged in oil anyways so he never understood why they would use them in the first place. so please get back with me when you get it going. ok
Honda Accord 2005 VTI-L (2.4, 4 Cylinder). Firstly, does it have a timing chain or a timing belt?
My current mileage is 92000 Kms.
1. At what mileage should the belt be changed if its a belt and not a chain? Is the belt on the left side of the engine about 2 inches wide? spinning over 3-4 pullys? about approx 1 meter long?
2. What other accessories or part have to be changed? i.e. water pump or tensioner pully? if yes then why do they need to be changed?
Honda Accord 2005 VTI-L (2.4, 4 Cylinder). Firstly, does it have a timing chain or a timing belt?
It does not have a belt.
You therefore do not need to change anything.
Water pump would be changed with a timing belt if it is driven by the timing belt not because it needs to be changed but to save the expense of removing and installing the belt again if the water pump failed.
Since you don't have a belt then there is no need to change the water pump until it needs changing [begins to leak or make noise etc.] No timing belt also mean no tensioner to change.
Note: A 6 cylinder Accord does have a belt.
Honda Accord 2005 VTI-L (2.4, 4 Cylinder). Firstly, does it have a timing chain or a timing belt?
What your describing is the serpentine belt and if this has not been change yet do it.
The car has a chain and should be done at about 60000 miles so you are due.
It's best to replace the water pump and tensioner at the same time you have the timing chain done.
Why do you do this, just proper maintenance, and you would not want to have that chain break then cause more damage.
Hope this helps
not familiar with the accord vti-l, you must be in europe or austrailia, but the 2005 Accords in the US come with the K24 motor which is a timing chain motor.
I have this car abd researched that prior to buying. You have a chain. You're good for 125K miles. Then it's also the water pump, and may as well do the hoses- preventative maintenance.
Timing chain,no service intervalve,the belt you see is serpentine,which drives AC and alternator,replace when cracked or make noise.
1. At what mileage should the belt be changed if its a belt and not a chain? Is the belt on the left side of the engine about 2 inches wide? spinning over 3-4 pullys? about approx 1 meter long?
2. What other accessories or part have to be changed? i.e. water pump or tensioner pully? if yes then why do they need to be changed?
Honda Accord 2005 VTI-L (2.4, 4 Cylinder). Firstly, does it have a timing chain or a timing belt?
It does not have a belt.
You therefore do not need to change anything.
Water pump would be changed with a timing belt if it is driven by the timing belt not because it needs to be changed but to save the expense of removing and installing the belt again if the water pump failed.
Since you don't have a belt then there is no need to change the water pump until it needs changing [begins to leak or make noise etc.] No timing belt also mean no tensioner to change.
Note: A 6 cylinder Accord does have a belt.
Honda Accord 2005 VTI-L (2.4, 4 Cylinder). Firstly, does it have a timing chain or a timing belt?
What your describing is the serpentine belt and if this has not been change yet do it.
The car has a chain and should be done at about 60000 miles so you are due.
It's best to replace the water pump and tensioner at the same time you have the timing chain done.
Why do you do this, just proper maintenance, and you would not want to have that chain break then cause more damage.
Hope this helps
not familiar with the accord vti-l, you must be in europe or austrailia, but the 2005 Accords in the US come with the K24 motor which is a timing chain motor.
I have this car abd researched that prior to buying. You have a chain. You're good for 125K miles. Then it's also the water pump, and may as well do the hoses- preventative maintenance.
Timing chain,no service intervalve,the belt you see is serpentine,which drives AC and alternator,replace when cracked or make noise.
2001 Volkswagen Jetta Owners please help me?
I own a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta Wolfsburg edition. Its one of the nicest cars I've ever driven. However today the engine malfunctioned and cut off after I switched to 2nd gear and it wouldnt start again. Yes I know how to drive stick and every time I change gears I make sure I press the clutch all the way to the bottom. But today right before the engine cut off there was this weird and nasty grinding sound, I imagine it was the timing chain. the car is used and I know Jetta's need their timing chain changed every 65000 miles before a serious malfunction.I've only had it for one day But this is the first time it has happened to me since its the first Jetta I've ever owned and Im worried about the car, . Was the sound I heard before the car cutted off the timing chain snapping or something else ?
2001 Volkswagen Jetta Owners please help me?
It sound like a pretty serious problem and you should definitely go to either a VW Dealership or some car shop and have them check it out. Usually they can do it for free.
2001 Volkswagen Jetta Owners please help me?
It sound like a pretty serious problem and you should definitely go to either a VW Dealership or some car shop and have them check it out. Usually they can do it for free.
'97 dakota timing chain?
i got a V6 '97 dakota..i had it to my mechanic (one my whole family uses) because of a rattle...he said that the timing chai nwas bad...it has 133K almost 134....that i no of it hasnt had one done..it is VERY loud...it sounds like a powerstroke when its stopped at a light or idle...i hear there very common to go in these...in fact the guy im going to have do the job has done quite a few...this sound right? i have replaced the steering shaft....checked my brakes and a,ll is good there...tires are in good shape...had a synthetic oil change a few months back (and new oil filter) i did a tranny flush and put a new filter in that..new air filter..new spark plugs..new idle air control selanoid...and still...its loud and when i turn it on after i have used it alot that day...it hits about 750 RPM...then goes down to like 450-500 RPM... then goes back up to like 650 RPM..and stays there... if it has sat all night (or longer) it hits 700 rpm and stays there...sound like timing chain? espiccely since theres so many miles on it?thanks and God Bless---Nick
'97 dakota timing chain?
it is more than likely the timing chain and gears in it going bad,usually those need replaced about every 150 thousand in those trucks so yours may be past due on changing it out,why its doing this is its throwing the timing so far out that the computer cant compensate for it any more,and that's causing the running condition your getting on it,good luck.
'97 dakota timing chain?
It's very common on the 3.9. It will give you warning sign such as the rattle at idle, that you need to change it soon. The newer chain-gear kits have tensioners too.
it could be the chain. it could be so loose that it,s banging against the timing case.
'97 dakota timing chain?
it is more than likely the timing chain and gears in it going bad,usually those need replaced about every 150 thousand in those trucks so yours may be past due on changing it out,why its doing this is its throwing the timing so far out that the computer cant compensate for it any more,and that's causing the running condition your getting on it,good luck.
'97 dakota timing chain?
It's very common on the 3.9. It will give you warning sign such as the rattle at idle, that you need to change it soon. The newer chain-gear kits have tensioners too.
it could be the chain. it could be so loose that it,s banging against the timing case.
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